India 19; Cultural Explanations

I thought it might be interesting to share some aspects of Indian culture/beliefs that I found interesting (again, please don't hold me to their accuracy).

Monkeys:
India’s monkeys are not behaving very much like gods these days. Normally, these rascals roam free in the streets and temples. Because they are associated with the Hindu deity, Hanuman, the monkey commander of the monkey army, they are highly respected. Hanuman represents devotion because he led his army to help Rama (an important Hindu god) recover his wife from the demon Ravana. The common belief in Hanuman has allowed them to go about their business unmolested, and many people leave fruit and other food out in public spaces for the monkeys, which encourages them to congregate. On the streets, they snatch food from people, pick pockets, and have even been known to ride public transport, drink alcohol and bite people. My friend made the mistake of leaving his balcony door open and after we shooed the monkey out, his room looked like a tornado had gone through it.

Kites:
India has a very ancient kite tradition. Brought to India by Chinese travelers, these diamond-shaped, tissue paper, and bamboo flying machines are used by just about every kid I saw, especially in Varanasi.

Bong lassi/marijuana:
I can't get a consensus on the legality of marijuana but I do know that it is commonly available and used (for both recreation and for religious rituals). Bong lassis are very popular among travelers; my hostel owner in Varanasi even provided the special beverage for my friends.

Wiping with hand:
Well, I'm here to tell you that, yes, Indians do wipe themselves with their hands. And, to be specific, their left hand, never their right. Toilet paper was never provided but what they did have was a faucet, so, it must be explained, they do use water with their hand when they wipe. When in Rome.....do like the Romans do; there is a reason that saying isn't "when in India." I am very content with hauling around my toilet paper supply.

Mutilation For Money:
While the poverty is real, begging is often carried out in organized gangs. Many of them are deliberately maimed or blinded (sometimes with acid) so they will get more sympathy when they beg. There are many child beggars who are not mutilated, but those with the worst injuries make the most money, earning up to ten times the amount that millions in India survive on each day. The children do not see any of their earnings. These are handed over to the gangmasters, and if a child does not make their target that day they are beaten and tortured. Almost all the child beggars are addicted to solvents, alcohol and charras. This helps the children to forget where they are, but it also helps the gangmasters to keep them under control. Maimed child beggars are terrified of speaking out because the gang masters have so much power (and the money they make covers any bribe that they would need to). As hard as it is to walk past people in such bad conditions I know that I am only encouraging begging as a profession.

Caste:
The origin of the caste system is in Hinduism, but it affects the whole Indian society. The caste system in the religious form is basically a simple division of society in which there are four hierarchical castes (Varnas) plus those so low that they are deemed untouchable. Not only are there castes, but sub-castes within them (Jats). Legally the government has banned the practice of the caste system and has even put affirmative discrimination in place. Each Varna has certain occupations, diet, duties, and rights. The highest Varna is of the Brahman (priests/educated), next is Kshatria (warriors/rulers/aristocrats), under them are the Vaisia (landlords/businessmen) and after them is the Sudra (peasants/working). Below these castes are the outcasts who are untouchable to the four castes. These untouchables worked in degrading jobs like cleaning, sewage etc. All the Jats accept that the Brahman Varna is the highest Varna in the hierarchy and the untouchables are outcasts and lowest in the hierarchy but there seems to be a hierarchy phenomenon within the Varnas I.e. there are some Brahman Jats that consider themselves superior to other Brahman Jats (it's a subjective hierarchy). Most marriages are within ones Jat (and the same community within the Jat) with the exception that the males can marry females from a lower Varna or Jat, but not vice versa. In general, the higher Jats are more strict about their dietary customs than the lower Jats and most Brahmans are vegetarians. They will not eat in lower Jats homes or even with lower Jats (because of this reason many restaurants hired Brahman cooks). Jat is determined by birth and it cannot be changed.


Hinduism:
Hinduism is the religion of the majority of people in India (about 80%) and Nepal. Unlike most other religions, Hinduism has no single founder, no single scripture, and no commonly agreed set of teachings. Hinduism is more of "a way of life" than structured religion. Although it is not easy to define Hinduism, it is rooted in India, most Hindus revere a body of texts as sacred scripture known as the Veda, and most Hindus draw on a common system of values known as dharma. Most Hindus believe in a Supreme God, whose qualities and forms are represented by the multitude of deities which emanate from him (Shiva, Ganesha, Vishnu) . All the gods in Hinduism are representations of one Supreme God. They believe that God manifests on earth for the salvation of infinite souls and is always present through the murtis, consecrated images of God. Each part (god) plays its own role though it is part of one supreme being. This was news to me because I had always viewed Hindusm as a polytheistic religion but all signs point to monotheism. Hindus believe that existence is a cycle of birth, death, and rebirth, governed by Karma. They also believe that the soul (atma) passes through a cycle of successive lives and its next incarnation is always dependent on how the previous life was lived until it attains moksha, similar to the Buddhist enlightenment (in my opinion it has inspired the social phenomenon of castes). Diwali, the Festival of Lights is the best known holy day. The main values are truth, compassion, non-violence, celibacy and purity (diet, thought and social interactions).

India 18; Delhi; No Problem

It pays to have low expectations. From the time I entered Nepal 2 months ago I have heard nothing but horror stories about Delhi. I pictured it as a slight upgrade from hell but with chai, head bobbles and cows. I was pleasantly surprised. I had made a reservation on hostelworld for the cheapest accommodation I could find (Delhi is very expensive compared to the rest of India), a 10 bed dorm for 225 rupees/$4 (very basic single rooms usually started at 500 rupees/$9), but when I arrived at 7 in the morning the owner escorted me to a private room, a spotless room with hot water (one of the better rooms I've had in India). He gave me a speech in a hypnotizing voice about how he could sense pureness in my energy while he made excruciatingly long eye contact and then told me that he wanted to give me the private room for 2 nights for the dorm room price....I couldn't argue with that.

My only goal in Delhi was to go shopping, and that I did. I shopped 'till I dropped and then some. Indians are my absolute favorite to bargain with. The predictable responses of "sure, why not?, " "mam, not possible," and "no problem" coupled with the head bobble and humor never fails to put a smile on my face. Even walking down the street and listening to their efforts to get my attention is nothing short of hilarious (when I'm in the right mood, that is). Even though I had my guard up so I wouldn't get scammed, I met dozens of genuinely good hearted people. I am going to miss moments where someone comes up to me when I look like a wet dog and calls my freshly wahed hair fly (haven't heard a good 90's slang word in a while) just to be nice. I just love India.

I have been starting a pay it forward campaign in India. Honest rickshaw drivers (and boatmen) are a dieing breed (nearly extinct in Delhi) so I thought I'd do my part to promote telling the truth. This is how it works:
1) I am able to bargain down the price to a fair rate.
2) They bring me directly to my desired destination (without stopping at shops where they get commission).
3) They don't tell me not to go to my desired destination for any reason (it's closed today when I know it's not, it's too expensive, etc.).
4) They stay true to the agreed upon price and don't try to get more for any reason (I had to go a longer way because roads are closed, I don't have change, blatant lies about the rate, etc.).
If all of the aforementioned qualifications are met, I give them at least 5 times the agreed upon rate, thank them for being honest, shake their hand while telling them "God bless you" and go on my way. There are few things that make me happier than seeing their shocked smile as they shake my hand. I don't know if it will make a difference, but maybe, just maybe, they will pass on the spirit if honesty and giving.

My last night in India was not how I would have predicted it to be. I ate dinner with the most romantic guy in the history of the world (sorry Romeo). His eyes sparkled as his talked about the adventures of love and pain and the art of literature. The dude lost his train of thought when the moon caught his eye then recited one of his own poems (passionately, I might add). Most of the evening was spent defining love, discussing the fruits of faith and convincing him that we weren't on a date. He said everything that the movies tell us that girls want to hear. I then realized that I don't want to be in the movies. Maybe I have walls that I need to let down but I don't believe in love at first sight, nor do I desire the sweep me off my feet and run away together type of romance. Love is more than that, more than raw emotions. I envied his passion to experience the full spectrum of every emotion and to indulge in all of life's pleasures but at the same time I realized how full I am. The only affirmation I seek is from God and I know He will continue to satisfy me beyond the world's temporary pleasures. I'm glad I was challenged on my views by the German doe-eyed Romeo over my last curry (for a while).

I'm one of those people in airports that makes me certain that I'll never work at one; airport Danika is the absolute worst. Sure, it wasn't the best idea to get henna done the morning of my flight causing me to run extremely late but everything is possible in India, right? I literally sprinted to my gate weaving through the obstacles that some refer to as people and made it to the finish line in the knick of time. I think I subconsciously made it so all I was thinking about that last day was making it on time so that leaving Asia (especially Nepal and India) didn't sink in. Asia has been my home for the last 20 months and it is surreal to leave the place that continues to fascinate and challenge me. I have no doubt that I will be back (with more time) soon but it's time to see what the Americas have to offer.

Next stop, Mexico! I can hardly wait to be reunited with my dad to see why cave exploring has been lighting up his eyes all these years. Meet, Danika, cave photographer and the newest member of the Veracruz spelunking team.

India 17; Wagah Border; Hissy Fit

At the border of India and Pakistan (a side trip from Amritsar) is the " beating retreat" border ceremony performed by the security forces of India and Pakistan that happens every day before sunset. Yes, every single day the border comes alive with nationalist energy. This patriotic display lasts about an hour and has been going strong since 1959. The Wagah Border used to the the only road that linked India and Pakistan, until there was another opening in Kashmir in 1999.

The entire ceremony was like a flamboyantly gay hissy fit. It begun with soldiers marching towards the gate at the border, which was flung open when they reached it. The two soldiers approached each other, exchanged fierce looks, gave out mimicked threats, and tried to show each other who's boss. They shook hands and simultaneously lowered the Indian and Pakistani flags. The solders stomped about, with their feet nearly hitting their foreheads, and strutted their fabulous outfits. There was also a man who showed off by holding a single note for an extended period over and over again....that was a real crowd pleaser. Then, the flags were neatly folded and carried back into the respective camps. There was a final brisk handshake between the soldiers from both sides, after which not even a glance was exchanged. This was followed by the slammed closing of both the gates and blowing of trumpet to mark the end of the grand ceremony. The crowd then swarmed in toward the gate and cheered.

My friends from the temple and I happened to watch the ceremony on India's national day with thousands of Indians who came to cheer on their country. The crowds were able to watch the display from footballesque stadium seating. It took a while but I was eventually able to escape the groping masses of men and got a decent view in the stands....Go Broncos ....I mean, India!

India 16; Amritsar; Golden People

Harmandir Sahib aka the Golden Temple was built by a Sikh gurus in 1585 AD (completed in 1604) and is considered holy by Sikhs. The original holy book of Sikhism, the Guru Granth Sahib, is always present inside the Gurdwara. Its construction was mainly intended to build a place of worship for men and women from all walks of life and religions to come and worship God equally. There are 4 entrances that symbolize the importance of acceptance and openness of the Sikhs towards all people and religions. The Gurdwara is surrounded by a large lake which consists of Amrit ("holy water"); many people bathe in it. Inside the Gurdwara there are many memorial plaques that commemorate past Sikh historical events, saints, martyrs and includes commemorative inscriptions of all the Sikh soldiers who died fighting in World Wars I and II.

The golden temple was absolutely gorgeous. During the day the sun lit up everything golden and at night it glowed like a lone star. The temple was nothing compared to the light that shined from the hearts of the people. Within the first five minutes of walking around the temple an elderly couple came up to my friend and I, talked to us about how God lives inside of us (so refreshing to hear after visiting so many temples), and then told us that they loved us. Their words really struck me. They didn't say love in a casual way like some do when they are saying goodbye on the phone, they meant it; love radiated from them and it was contagious. Besides my home churches, I have never felt so welcome at a place of worship. People would come up to me left and right to take pictures, shake my hand and to tell me that they were glad I was there; I was a celebrity on the red carpet. I wish church made people who practice a different religion feel as welcome.

Next to the temple is the free kitchen (langar) that offers unlimited food, clean water and tea to all people 24/7. This is ambitions in any country, but especially India. Guruji designed this institution to be a place which all people (man, woman, rich or poor) would sit on the floor together, as equals, to eat the same simple food. It was nearly the same meal every day: daal, curry, rice pudding, rice, water, tea, and chapatti and it was darn delicious. Langar also teaches the etiquette of sitting and eating in a community situation, which has played a great part in upholding the virtue of sameness of all human beings; providing a welcome, secure and protected sanctuary. It feeds about 100,000 visitors every day....just a normal day. Once you collect your plate and bowl, you make your way to one of the dining areas, about the size of 2 high school gyms, and sit at the next available spot on a floor mat. At professional speed, volunteers make their rounds slopping daal, curry, rice, and rice pudding on your plate and divvying out frisbees of chapatti bread. As long as you are seated you are offered seconds thirds and even fourths. When you are satisfied, you take your dishes outside to volunteers and then have the option of finishing off your meal off with some hot chai. Volunteers alone sustain the temple by doing anything from chopping onions, supervising the chapatti machines, and doing dishes to cleaning the bathrooms. I spend my last day washing dishes with other women in the kitchen. Those women got to work, let me tell you. Every bowl, plate, cup and spoon was like candy that dropped from a piñata. We all fought for them because it is viewed as am honor to contribute. The volunteers did not have the attitude of doing chores, but service.

If you thought feeding thousands of people a day was enough then you are mistaken....it also houses them. Volunteers and donations make sure everyone has a place to sleep and a full stomach (there is no pressure to make a donation, it's only if you are able to). Heck, I even slept there. Foreigners have a separate area with beds and lockers and are only asked to give donations. The communal set up of the sleeping arrangements also displays the values of Sikhs by helping complete strangers bond.

Devotion. That is the word that comes to mind when I think about my time at Harmandir Sahib. It wasn't hard to see that these people truly lived out their faith. It wasn't for show or because they were guilted into it, it was God moving through them, making them the true gold in Amritsar.

India 15; Dharmasala (McLeod Ganj); Full

Not only did the atmosphere make me full, the food did too. On my last day in town I took a cooking class at a place that had been recommended to me with a gal from Costa Rica that I met on the train. I don't know if it was because I was there for the entire process and appreciated every ingredient (now that I could finally identify them) but they were probably the best indian dishes I've ever had. I thought I'd share the love and post the recipes (he measured with his hands so the quantities are approximate for two large servings). Don't forget to make enough for seconds! Enjoy!


Palak Paneer:

200 g of spinach leaves
2 small tomatoes
2 small purple onions
1 1/2 tbsp oil
1/2 tsp cumin seed
1 tsp chili powder (or to taste)
3/4 tsp salt
1 tsp mixed spices powder
1 tsp masala
100 g paneer
1 tbsp butter

Boil spinach in 2 cups of water for 10 min and when it's cooked blend in blender. While the spinach is boiling dice the tomatoes and onions. In a pan sauté the cumin seed in the oil. When they are brown add the onion. When the onion is brown add the tomato, chili powder, salt, mixed spices powder, and masala. With 1/4 cup water add spinach blend to pan then add cubes of paneer, butter, and chili powder to taste. Eat!


Paneer Butter Masala:

6 small tomatoes
1 onion
1/2 tbsp oil
1/2 tsp cumin seed
1/2 tsp turmeric
1/2 tsp chili powder
1 tsp ginger garlic paste
1 tsp salt
1 tsp mixed spices powder
1 tsp masala
100 g paneer
2 tsp butter
1 tbsp chopped cilantro

Cut tomatoes and onion into big chunks and boil for 10 minutes. Take off tomato peels and drain then blend in blender. Put oil, cumin seed, turmeric, chili powder, and ginger garlic paste in a pan then add tomato/onion paste, salt, mixed spices powder, masala, paneer, butter and then finally chopped cilantro. Eat!


Malai Kofta:

Paste:
1 small purple onion
3 small tomatoes
Green cardamom
Brown cardamom
Cinnamon
1/2 tbsp oil
1 tsp cumin seed
1/2 tsp chili powder
1/2 tsp turmeric
1 tbsp ginger garlic paste
1 tsp salt
1 tsp masala
1 tsp mixed spices
3 tbsp watermelon seed (or cashews)
1/2 c milk
1 tbsp butter

Cut tomatoes and onions into big chunks then boil in 2 c of water for 20 min then blend in blender. Put oil, cumin seed, chili powder, turmeric, ginger garlic paste in a pan and then add tomato/onion purée. Add whole spices (cardamoms and cinnamon). When mixture separates from oil add 1/4 c water, salt, masala, and mixed spices. Blend watermelon seeds with 1/2 c water in blender and add to the boiling pot. Add milk and butter and take out whole spices.

Balls:
1 potato
50 g paneer
1/2 tsp cumin seed
1/4 tsp chili powder
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp mixed spices
1/2 tsp masala
1 tsp cornflower
Oil
Raisins
Cashews

Cook the potato. Mixed everything together and mush together with hands to form balls. Put raisins and cashews in the middle of the balls then deep fry till golden brown then put in paste. Eat!

India 14; Dharmasala (McLeod Ganj); Echos of Tibet

I have a confession to make: I'm stalking the Dali Lama. That's right, I followed him home.

Credit is undisputedly owed to the Dalai Lama and his Tibetan refugee followers for making Dharmasala such a special place. In 1960 the 14th Dalai established the Tibetan exile administration in Dharmasala making it the centre of the Tibetan exile world in India. Following the 1959 Tibetan uprising there was an influx of Tibetan refugees who followed him, including Tibet's Prime Minister. Dharmasala is not India. Sure, it's located in India, but the Dalai Lama's presence and the Tibetan population has made Dharamshala a mini Lhassa. The beauty of the people is enough to make anyone fall in love but its beauty doesn't end there. The Himalayas and bright buildings planted in between the strong Cedars can make anyone's heart pitter patter.

The walk around the temple where the Dalai Lama lives was a peaceful path through trees with monks, nuns, and monkeys. I made a rookie mistake my first lap and went the wrong direction. I can now say that I've seen it from a perspective that few do....an embarrassing perspective. What I loved about the temple grounds is that is wasn't touristic, it was just people living out their faith. The Tibetan museum, adjacent to the temple was a tear jerker. It shared the troubles of the Tibet through a compassionate perspective full of hope for change. A quote that stuck out to me is: "Tibetans have an old saying: 'even a nun can become the ruler of Tibet if that brings happiness to the land.' I think this showcases how they are simple mountain people that just want happiness and freedom.

Besides visiting the temple and museum I soaked up the nature by hiking to a few villages, a sacred lake called Dal Lake, and Bhagsu Waterfall. I was also happy to be reunited with the Tibetan cuisine, momos and thukpa.

While I was walking to Bhagsu Waterfall, I had the pleasure of meeting a young Tibetian refugee who I'll call "Delhi Zumba" because he introduced me to the scrumptious Tibetan cookie, zumba. At the young age of 11 he fled from the only home he had known and left his parents to escape the oppression in Tibet. In order to have a chance at an education he came to India with his brother and is now pursuing a bachelors degree in Delhi. In fear of the Chinese government, he only makes one phone call to his parents a year and has come to the realization that he may never be able to see them or his country again. He explained to me that because he doesn't have a passport (only an ARC, which he has to renew every year in Dharmasala), he is unable to leave India unless he gets sponsored. You would know none of this by just looking at him. Although he is constantly saddened by the situation, he has chosen to make the best of things. Similar to the other Tibetans in town, he was considerate and always wore a smile. He is the perfect example of the resilience of the Tibetan people. From what I saw, they truly lived out the Dalai Lama's values. Instead of being angry they are compassionate. Even when it came to buying things they were much less likely to bargain because they are honest about their first price and don't want to waste their emotion arguing (assumption). Instead of turning to hate and violence they turn to meditation and education. Simply remarkable people.

India 13; Rishikesh; No Woo Who Ha Ha

Aside from my routine of getting my yoga and food on, I went on strolls along the river, went rafting (Rishikesh is the rafting capital of the nation), and hiked to Neelkanth Mahadev Temple.

My rafting group was a mixture of Brazilians, Argentineans, Spaniards, and an English speaking New Yorker. I quickly realized how little my effort of learning Spanish had paid off, but more importantly how excited I am to go to S. America. I was assigned the queen seat in the front which left me completely and utterly soaked from head to toe. Our guide was a hilariously serious Indian guy who would warn us about upcoming rapids by saying "listen to my instructions, no 'woo who ha ha,' now paddle forward." Dispite his strict orders, there was a lot of 'woo who ha ha' in our boat.

Neelkanth Mahadev Temple is a very sacred temple for Hindus. According to Hindu mythology it was the place where Shiva drank up venom (churned out of the ocean) to save the world from the evil, death and destruction. It is said that Lord Shiva had the ability to stop the venom from entering his body so he reserved it in his throat forever. The poison did not harm him but turned his throat murky blue. It is believed that the event occurred in the place where the temple is located. Not only that, but it houses the neck of Shiva himself. I don't know much about Hinduism but a building that holds a god's neck sounded pretty epic.

There was a lot less woo who ha on the hike back from Neelkanth Mahadev Temple. Let me start from the beginning. The hike up to the temple was gorgeous (I went with two Brazilian gals, "Curls", an actress in Sao Paulo, and "Brazilian Yoga", a yoga and art teacher); trees, monkeys, and amazing views of Rishikesh the entire way. When we got there we walked through the building in 2 minutes. We didn't get it. Did we miss it? We kept asking people where it was but they would point right back where we exited. Apparently we don't know a god's neck when we see it. We then went back a second time to the room where a man clothed on frock was sitting. He was behind a pool of light blue water about the size of a toilet bowl that was apparently his the neck of Shiva (I am still very confused). We hiked back down (13 Km. each way) but as it turned dark and we reached the end of the dirt trail, we got lost. We were in a typical horror film; three young women lost on a mountain in the dark...in India (insert scary music and screams here). Curls was on the cusp of tears and started flagging down cars to rescue us. Her desperation led us to find someone (I'll call him "angel") to drive us back to town. We had no other option but to trust that he wasn't an ax murderer or warewolf. He dropped us off near our hotel (out of his way) and was a complete gentleman; he wouldn't even accept the gas money we offered him. Angel even confessed that he was hesitant to give us a ride in fear of being falsely accused of sexual harassment (there was a recent rape case in Delhi that has brought a lot of attention to woman's safety)...thank God we took a chance on trusting each other.

During dinner I met a persuasive Argentinian and made a last minute decision to join him in Dharmasala (which was my original plan but my love for Rishikesh caused me to keep postponing leaving) so I said my goodbyes and packed up.