Males in bright orange robes can be casually seen just about everywhere in Luang Prabang.
Luang Prabang is renowned for the procession of monks who walk around the streets in a line at sunrise (Alms ceremony), collecting alms from the villagers, but mostly tourist that are looking for a photo op. Monks don’t receive monetary income, so they can’t buy food. They rely on others to feed them every day (people donate to increase their good karma). Everyday They get up at 4 am, meditate and then all the monks and the novice monks walk through the streets to collect alms (food). To show alliance with the Buddha, who ate only when necessary to emphasize the Middle Way, food is not eaten after noon-time. I got up before 6AM to witness this event. The conga line of one thousand monks varied in height from eight-year-old novices to old men, but all wore the same uniform: orange cloths, yellow sashes, bare feet. We knelt along the main roads on brightly covered carpet with baskets full of food; palm-sized packages of sticky rice wrapped up in banana leaf, rice crackers, ect. We placed them one-by-one in each monk’s copper bowl as he strode past, quietly bowing, without making eye contact. Although I didn't witness it first-hand, monks are said to take donated package out of their bowl and place it in the containers of village people in need. They give up their own food for the person in need. Talk about community.
Under 20 years the boys are novices but they can undergo a ceremony at 20 and become Monks (novices have only temporarily committed to monkshood and wrap their robes differently). Monks and Novices have no possessions except the few items that they carry in their bags. They study at school for free (they usually have access to education superior what they would otherwise have in their village) and learn about being Buddhists. Novices attend primary or secondary school during the day as well as Buddhist school and many also go to "college". When school is not in session, the monks will sometimes organize the novices to do construction like renovating old temples or doing other chores. In the evening, the boys attend "college" or are expected to study and meditate. Most of the young men in Laos spend at least one year as a Monk or Novice at some point in their lives and during this time they do not drink, smoke, eat after lunchtime, touch women, swear or have money or possessions.
Although they have a strict routine or working, praying and studying, they also get free time where they can do things like swim in the Mekong and just be normal teenage boys (see pic of them doing flips by the Mekong Delta below).
Their simplicity, self sacrifice and dedication to purity is highly commendable, especially in this age of instant gratification.
Showing posts with label Laos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Laos. Show all posts
Sunday, November 18, 2012
Laos 3; Luang Prabang; I Want My Mom
Proven by a heavy case of food sickness, I'm not invincible after all. On my second to last night, I threw up (and more) for a solid 12 hours straight with small teeth-brushing intermittences. There are few things that make me want to be a spoiled princess with my mom at my beck and call more than when I'm sick. I reminisced about the days where I would lie in bed with a sterilized bucket, blankets galore, Gatorade, Saltine crackers and a tummy rubbing mom by my side (thank you Mama bear). My dorm room at my hostel was on the 3rd floor, which meant 2 floors, 4 flights of stairs and a hallway away from the common toilets (worlds away in barfers land). For normal circumstances, this is adequate distance from the smelly throne, but I did not have ordinary needs. I raced back and forth all night, hoping to make it to a target in time. In the morning, I dragged myself to get some bread and water to replenish my stomach, making only one "mess" on the way. I then sentenced myself to a full day of dorm-room arrest.
The only culprit that I can think of was a vegetarian buffet in the street market, but even that was thoroughly stir fried together in front of me. Of course it would happen in the most developed, western-friendly country on my journey. Here you have it my first case of food sickness leading to my first case of homesickness.
The only culprit that I can think of was a vegetarian buffet in the street market, but even that was thoroughly stir fried together in front of me. Of course it would happen in the most developed, western-friendly country on my journey. Here you have it my first case of food sickness leading to my first case of homesickness.
Laos 2; Luang Prabang; Waterfalls and Planking
We all went to Kuang Si Falls, the biggest waterfall in the area. We jumped off the top of the falls , swung off the terrifying rope swing and I planked.
Inspired by a brilliant British duo I met earlier, I created a series called "find the planker." According to Wikipedia, planking is:
"an activity consisting of lying face down —sometimes in an unusual or incongruous location. Both hands must touch the sides of the body. Some players compete to find the most unusual and original location in which to play. The term planking refers to mimicking a wooden plank. Planking can include lying flat on a flat surface, or holding the body flat while it's supported in only some regions, with other parts of the body suspended. Many participants in planking have photographed the activity in unusual locations and have shared such pictures through social media."
I gave it a little twist and extended my arms, creating "elongated planking."
As you can see, it's quite serious. I now invite you to play a differentiation of Where's Waldo? called "Where's the Elongated Planker?"!
Inspired by a brilliant British duo I met earlier, I created a series called "find the planker." According to Wikipedia, planking is:
"an activity consisting of lying face down —sometimes in an unusual or incongruous location. Both hands must touch the sides of the body. Some players compete to find the most unusual and original location in which to play. The term planking refers to mimicking a wooden plank. Planking can include lying flat on a flat surface, or holding the body flat while it's supported in only some regions, with other parts of the body suspended. Many participants in planking have photographed the activity in unusual locations and have shared such pictures through social media."
I gave it a little twist and extended my arms, creating "elongated planking."
As you can see, it's quite serious. I now invite you to play a differentiation of Where's Waldo? called "Where's the Elongated Planker?"!
Laos 1; Luang Prabang; Perfecting The Act Of Relaxing
I got to Laos and immediately started relaxing. After I relaxed, I relaxed some more. Then, I took a break from my relaxing to, you guessed it, relax. I honesty didn't know I had it in me, but I came down with a severe case of Slothoma. The daytime heat, streets covered with delicious cafes, smoothie shops and bakeries, and the rivers running through town enabled my laziness.
Luang Prabang is a slow-paced city that is, according to the map, in SE Asia; it is so overrun by European tourists (a large portion in their late 50's) that it is hard to tell. The people are very laid back and are constantly smiling, very similar to Thailand. Compared to Vietnam, it is much more expensive, cleaner and quieter; giving it a honeymoon feel. There are several temples in town and two main waterfalls that lie on the outskirts. At night, the night market springs up and the restaurants come to life (but are required to close by 11:30). Because the guesthouses are set up for either couples or 16-bed dorms and excursions almost require finding enough people to fill a tuk tuk (8), I found it much less solo-traveler friendly, but still doable. The attitude of the majority of tourists seemed much more like vacationers (or frat party) as opposed to travelers, I was lucky enough to find the exceptions to the rule.
On my first day, I set up camp at an outdoor cafe along the river to catch up on e-mails, postcards and blogs and was approached by fiery Irishwoman who I'll call "Irish Tambourine" (we contributed to the band by using the studs on her jacket as an instrument. Being the outgoing lady she is, she invited me to join her and her crew at a famous restaurant in town for dinner. Although I was fully booked doing absolutely nothing, I decided to take her up on her offer. I had no idea we would be treated like royalty (for free)...silver platters and all. The Irishman that they were traveling with (I'll call him "Charming Bull" because he is probably one of the most likable people I've ever met and was traumatized by a Bull in his early years) was dating the owner of the restaurant/bar at Lonely Planet's top pick. The owner was a generous Laotian man with hair that never moves and who wears shirts that accentuate his pectorals (I'll call him " Pink Lao Lao"). The American in the posse was an extremely intelligent man who is an acoustic guitar player (I'll call him" In 1493..."). I should also point out that he is a lyrical genius who writes all his own songs and starts most stories at the beginning of time; completely fabricated ex: "what did you do today?" "Well in 1493, after Columbus arrived in America, it led to the Columbian Exchange, which is why there are oranges in Florida. In my childhood, I used to drink a big glass of Florida orange juice on hot summer days...." "Let me stop you right there, so you drank orange juice today." "Yea, I just drank some orange juice." An Australian gypsy-like gal, a Laotian-American vagabond and a cheeky New Yorker comprised the rest of the posse.
We became regulars in a bar called Mojo's where they have open mic night every night. Random musicians would join together to improv. songs that they have a never heard before together, including jazz, blues, and In 1493...'s originals. The other regulars included an incredible temporary in-house bassist and guitarist, a Scottish Harmonica player and a Danish drummer from my hostel. I literally got goosebumps watching strangers come together to create the auditory art. We would then head over to Laotian Lad's bar. When that closed, we would call it an early night or head to the local bar, the only place besides the bowling alley that was open past 11:30.
I think that was the first time I've stayed in one place (besides the U.S. and Japan) long enough to get a routine...
Luang Prabang is a slow-paced city that is, according to the map, in SE Asia; it is so overrun by European tourists (a large portion in their late 50's) that it is hard to tell. The people are very laid back and are constantly smiling, very similar to Thailand. Compared to Vietnam, it is much more expensive, cleaner and quieter; giving it a honeymoon feel. There are several temples in town and two main waterfalls that lie on the outskirts. At night, the night market springs up and the restaurants come to life (but are required to close by 11:30). Because the guesthouses are set up for either couples or 16-bed dorms and excursions almost require finding enough people to fill a tuk tuk (8), I found it much less solo-traveler friendly, but still doable. The attitude of the majority of tourists seemed much more like vacationers (or frat party) as opposed to travelers, I was lucky enough to find the exceptions to the rule.
On my first day, I set up camp at an outdoor cafe along the river to catch up on e-mails, postcards and blogs and was approached by fiery Irishwoman who I'll call "Irish Tambourine" (we contributed to the band by using the studs on her jacket as an instrument. Being the outgoing lady she is, she invited me to join her and her crew at a famous restaurant in town for dinner. Although I was fully booked doing absolutely nothing, I decided to take her up on her offer. I had no idea we would be treated like royalty (for free)...silver platters and all. The Irishman that they were traveling with (I'll call him "Charming Bull" because he is probably one of the most likable people I've ever met and was traumatized by a Bull in his early years) was dating the owner of the restaurant/bar at Lonely Planet's top pick. The owner was a generous Laotian man with hair that never moves and who wears shirts that accentuate his pectorals (I'll call him " Pink Lao Lao"). The American in the posse was an extremely intelligent man who is an acoustic guitar player (I'll call him" In 1493..."). I should also point out that he is a lyrical genius who writes all his own songs and starts most stories at the beginning of time; completely fabricated ex: "what did you do today?" "Well in 1493, after Columbus arrived in America, it led to the Columbian Exchange, which is why there are oranges in Florida. In my childhood, I used to drink a big glass of Florida orange juice on hot summer days...." "Let me stop you right there, so you drank orange juice today." "Yea, I just drank some orange juice." An Australian gypsy-like gal, a Laotian-American vagabond and a cheeky New Yorker comprised the rest of the posse.
We became regulars in a bar called Mojo's where they have open mic night every night. Random musicians would join together to improv. songs that they have a never heard before together, including jazz, blues, and In 1493...'s originals. The other regulars included an incredible temporary in-house bassist and guitarist, a Scottish Harmonica player and a Danish drummer from my hostel. I literally got goosebumps watching strangers come together to create the auditory art. We would then head over to Laotian Lad's bar. When that closed, we would call it an early night or head to the local bar, the only place besides the bowling alley that was open past 11:30.
I think that was the first time I've stayed in one place (besides the U.S. and Japan) long enough to get a routine...
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